Ethiopian Jewish Chef and Restauranteur Beejhy Barhany on Her New Cookbook, “Gursha”

As far back as she can remember, Beejhy Barhany, an Ethiopian Jewish chef and owner of the Tsion Cafe in Harlem, has loved cooking.

“From my early childhood, I have been helping my mom, my aunties, and my grandma cook,” she said. “I would be in the kitchen peeling garlic or helping with the injera, and these times were typically centered around family affairs. They were always cooking, preparing meals for Shabbat or a special holiday or just because a guest was coming. I grew up in a household where hospitality and feeding guests, friends, and family is an honor and part of daily life. For me, to be nourishing friends and family, and sometime newcomers, is just part of my DNA.”

Now, Beejhy has released a new cookbook, “Gursha: Timeless Recipes for Modern Kitchens, from Ethiopia, Israel, Harlem, and Beyond: A Cookbook,” where she explores Ethiopia’s culinary history and showcases her Beta Israel family’s resilience and generosity. It includes traditional recipes from her Ethiopian heritage, her travels around the world, and Israel like shakshuka, legamat, which are Sudanese doughnuts, and the spicy Ethiopian chicken stew doro wot, as well as her own unique dishes like injera fish tacos, berbere fried fish, and Queen of Sheba chocolate cake.

“I want to shine a light on the rich Ethiopian Jewish cuisine that has been there for millennia,” Beejhy said. “With plant-based diets, fermentation processes, and unique ancient techniques that are preserved from generation to generation, Ethiopian Jewish food is nutritious, vegan, gluten-free and is a gem that needs to be discovered and appreciated. Personally, it is very important for me to make Ethiopian food. It is part of my identity my history, my tradition and is very important to preserve those recipes and stories for further generations.”

Beejhy’s Journey to Israel and America

Beejhy was born in Ethiopia in the Tigray region; she and her family left in the 1980s, when she was four years old. On the way, they stopped in Sudan for three years, learning Arabic and discovering how to make Sudanese foods. From there, they went to Kenya and Uganda, and shortly thereafter they ended up in Israel.

“My journey was terrifying, exhilarating, and at times we were unsure if we would survive, and it definitely put our faith and trust of our community in jeopardy,” she said. “However, with help from strangers and family alike we were able to make it safely. After thousands of years of yearning for the return to Jerusalem and unification of Am Yisrael, it was a dream come true for my parents to arrive in the land of Jerusalem.”

After growing up in Israel, Beejhy decided to move to New York, where she lives with her husband and two children, whom she has taught to cook as well.

“I want my kids to be self-sufficient with the ability to feed themselves and to be open to cuisine from all over the world,” she said. “I want them to be well-rounded global citizens. And of course, I want them to have healthy habits. I always encourage them to cook from fresh ingredients and avoid eating food that is processed. I hope they make food from scratch and are conscious of where their ingredients are coming from.”

Beejhy and Her Jewish Heritage

In “Gursha,” Beejhy dedicates chapters to each Jewish holiday that say the story, food, and tradition associated with the holiday. She also includes recipes for Shabbat.

“In getting ready to celebrate Shabbat Queen, I put together a special menu,” she said.

One holiday that especially resonates with Beejhy is Passover.

“Since we are around the corner from Passover, and the journey of the Ethiopian Jews leaving parallels the Exodus of the Israelites, this resonates with my experience. Within the book, there is a whole section devoted to the tradition, rituals, and foods around Passover, especially the matzah, which is based on an ancient recipe,” she said.

In her cookbook and in life, Beejhy’s Judaism is important to her.

“My faith is an integral component of my identity,” Beejhy said. “I embrace it. I celebrate it. And I am proud of it.”

With her cookbook, she hopes to “take the message of Ethiopian cuisine, community, and culture to a larger audience, beyond the confines of the restaurant. Much as Tsion Cafe has provided us with a sacred space to have dialogue, break bread, and learn about the stories, tradition, and customs of Ethiopia and the Ethiopian Jewish community, we hope to create that same space wherever the reader may be. Now that the recipes are at their fingertips, readers can engage with stories aligned with traditions and hopefully have a better understanding of my story and community.”

For some delicious Ethiopian cooking, try these two recipes: